Alaska, the Last Frontier. Just mentioning it makes me think immediately of two things: cold weather and bears!!! Well, Alaska is much more than that…

It’s a USA’s State with flair of a Country itself. Not because they are secessionist, but for its far location and particular characteristics. Only 600,000 people live in this vast territory, and more than half are in the spread-out Anchorage.

It’s cold, yes, but it will much colder in winter. Even though this is one of the coolest springs in the last years, it’s no so terrible. There are bears too, so one has to tale some precautions before going into their territory. That’s Alaska, a natural land occupied by it’s natural inhabitants. Us, human beings, we are just a minority passing by.

But, what’s Alaska for a visitor like me? After a few days I can say that it’s a synonym of planes, a kind of transportation as usual as cars and always flying around. Also the RV’s (Recreational Vehicles) huge motor homes that clog the roads with their oversized frames and sometimes pulling ATV, kayaks, bikes and even golf carts!!! They are generally occupied by retired couples that come to these roads after a life of hard work. They use tons of gasoline and monopolize the circulation. Even the campgrounds are designed only for them. Us, tent lovers, we are an exotic minority…

I’ve also seen dozen of Harley Davidson passing me by, so I guess this is a very popular road during the boreal summer.

And the most populous inhabitants of this region couldn’t be excluded from the mix: they are neither the bears, nor the elks, nor the foxes. They are the mosquitoes!!! Where ever you go, they will be there too. And if there’s water nearby, watch out for yourself!!! They are voracious, untiring and they seem to know exactly which area of skin is not covered with DEET to attack it.

But, how were these first 450 Km? I started on Monday Jun 4th, 2007 from the Kullberg’s home, in Anchorage. A light drizzle was falling and it got mixed with tears of emotion and happiness that I was feeling as I was going down the road. Rick had told me: “my best trips always started with rain”. I have no doubt that this wouldn’t be the exception!!!

The first day I traveled 100 km until reaching Palmer. At the beginning I was able to avoid the busy highway riding on a comfy bike path. Then, I chose the “Old Glenn Hwy”. Perhaps it didn’t have a broad shoulder for riding, but the traffic was lighter… and less noisy!!

The few climbs I had let me know clearly that the bike was too heavy and that I’m still not in my best shape!! The slight inclination on the road was like an anchor that dragged me backwards. Could I be able to do this later on???

At least the landscape changed between abundant trees, lakes that also are landing areas for planes, and all type and style of houses.

I soon also discovered something very typical of this place: The private property signs, inviting in a not very friendly manner, to stay out of other people’s land. Many people came to Alaska escaping from something in the society that they left behind and it’s clear that they don’t want to be disturbed…. In a place where many people carry guns, it is better not to tempt luck, isn’t it?

A few Km form Palmer (bah, miles, which are longer and put me down because they seem to pass by slower than Km) I had my first blown tire!! It wasn’t a flat, it just blew up. The pressure on the tire was too much and the rear tube simple exploded. On top of that, a furious wind started blowing and it wildly generated a dirt cloud diminishing visibility to zero. Welcome to the road!!!

I arrive to Palmer at 6:30 pm, after along journey, tired but happy at the same time. Mi first stop after my winter in Antarctica was at the Palmer Research Station. Now, my first stage on this trip ended in Palmer!!!

I stayed with Jesse Owens, a Kullberg’s friend. Jesse turned out to be an example of will and determination. An accident in his youth left him quadriplegic, but that didn’t stop him from doing more activities outdoors than many “active” people I know…all together!!

From crossing glaciers, climbing mountains, kayaking, bushwalking, including an almost deadly encounter with a black bear, Jesse has lived his life wholly. He is a great example to follow.  He made the tools to move around by himself. He’s a magician of creativity and welding…!

When he invited me to go kayaking if I stayed a day longer in Palmer, I didn’t think twice. At the same time it would be a good chance to fix a few things on the bike.

I continued on Wednesday bearing towards Wasilla. According to the locals, it’s the “armpit” of Alaska. You could see many vestiges of urban growth to the side of the road, and not too attractive to the eye.

Nevertheless, I kept going on a perfect bike path that went to Willow, about 50 Km ahead.  The day was perfect, with the sun and temperature more than pleasant. To the side of the road, there were many stands offering  “espresso coffee” Used to the coffee we drink in Argentina, this one looked like turbid water, but the good thing is that it’s always abundant (small cups don’t exist!!) and in many places they offer free refills!!! Great!!!

I ended up my day camping on the shore of Lake Kashwinta. I saw a trail with no no-trespassing sign and I took it. I found a nice campsite about 50 m from the road and 20 m form the lake. My great fear was if there were any bears nearby. So close to the road? Noooo…

However, I followed all the recommended measures for the circumstances: cooking far away from the tent, hanging the food and smelly creams (like toothpaste) from a tree (the famous triangle disposition) and even to pee around the tent!!!Not to mention also having handy my “bear bell” to make noises (hardly any noisier than the passing cars) and the pepper spray that Rick gave me in Anchorage. You never know!!! And after so many scary stories…

Obviously, the bears didn’t show up. 

The next day I arrived to Talkeetna, after taking a 25 km detour. I wasn’t sure about going there because I had to take the same road back, which is something I don’t like to do, especially with all the gear I carry around. But I was told that it was well worth it… and they were right!!!

Not sooner than I arrived to the small and touristy village, that an older couple started taking to me. They told me about their cruise to the extreme southern point of the continent… and the lady became my first official sponsor when se gave me 5 dollars. That was great!!!

Later, I met Meghan; a circus teacher that spoke perfect Spanish and that invited me to stay with her in a hockey storage area-trailer where she was staying while she was teaching a course to the town’s kids.

I decided to stay a day longer and visit with more detail this beautiful place where three great rivers meet, and Mt Denali (or Mt McKinley) shows itself majestic when the weather permits.

For some time, Talkeetna has been the starting point for expeditions trying to climb Mt Denali, North America’s highest mountain. The planes leave from the village and leave the climbers at the base camps that they placed on the glaciers.

When the tourist flux ceases and the calm returns to the miniscule downtown area, you can appreciate with plenitude the beauty of the place. To see the Sun at almost midnight on the Susitna river shore it’s a unique show.  

Meghan was not only my guide and hostess, but also tried (without luck) to teach me  to juggle and also offered me a clarinet mini recital… She’s an idol!!!

On Saturday, when I was leaving Talkeetna, I had my first encounter with a bear!!  I was climbing the bike path while crossing the main road, when I saw a grizzly bear head. For a fraction of a second, my heart stopped!! But then I realized that it was moving, sort of like dancing!! Yes. After climbing a bit more, the mystery was solved: It was a guy in a costume, promoting the “Happy Bear Coffee Shop”!! What a scare!!!

For the next three days I rode the busy Parks Hwy towards Cantwell. I stayed at the campsites set up by the Denali State park, so there was a bit more security regarding the bears… or not!

On the second day, a piece of glass slashed my tire rendering it unusable. It was a short day because Maira was asking for some maintenance… in a very short time I lost a tire and a tube. How would it be when I get to the gravel???

On Monday June 11th I woke up “under” water. It was raining and plenty of rain. In a break from the storm I broke camp and kept moving. It was a very wet day! The rain came with me most of the day testing my will and my body’s resistance.

But the reward was immediate: The views of the mountains being crisscrossed by the clouds was well worth it.  They showed up among the forests, climbing towards the horizon as if they were playing hide and seek all the time. Spectacular!!!

When I got to the road, I met another cyclist: Aaron (or something like this) a doctor from the north of Germany,  who had rode in two days the same distance that took me a week!! And he’s 65 years old!!! Hi’s bike was a hybrid racing bike adapted for traveling and he was carrying a third of what I carry. An example of German simplicity and perseverance!! He was riding 150 km a day, with a very slow and calm ride. As he told me: “it has nothing to do with speed, it’s the hours that you spend on your seat” And he was totally right! That morning he got up at 5 am!!!

He told me of his countless trips around North America and Europe and his future projects in Africa. After riding the first kilometers together, I kept going on my own pace. Many climbs were waiting for me and I didn’t want to arrive too late to Cantwell, some 70 km ahead…

After crossing the “Broad Pass” with its 750 m (the first one of many to come) and enjoying the panoramic views as a background, I arrived to Cantwell around 5 pm.

The rain kept me an extra day in this small town of 100 people, waiting that the weather and the road conditions got better… It’s a door to the inhospitable Denali Hwy, my first test on a gravel road, pronounced climbs and bear territory!!

Until the next time!!!


More photos from this chronicle: